Friday, January 4, 2019
..surfed wave after wave until my legs were jelly.
Over the rest of the trip, I found my share of wipeouts and revelled in my share of “flight” time.
I learned, with practice, that the easiest way to get out to the line up is to wade the board, foil pointed up, until in chest deep water. Once chest deep, flip the foil into the water, jump onto the board and paddle over the waves to the line up.